Occasionally cheese lovers ask me to recommend them good, less known Italian cheeses. Here's my list.
Disclaimer
Most cheeses, particularly soft ones, do not age well. That makes it difficult to find good quality cheeses far from the place where they are produced. It is always a good idea to try them on location first, then find a supplier close to home and decide whether it is worth the effort and price. For example, Fontina is readily available in most delicatessens here in London, but as it doesn't sell fast enough I always found it hard and bitter when I bought it. It all depends on the individual supplier and clientele.
Cheese classification
Cheese legislation in Italy goes back to the 1920s. In 1992 the EU passed the Protected Geographical Status framework (DOP in Italian) which harmonized existing legislation relating to regional food. Existing Italian legislation was absorbed into it, making it more accessible worldwide. WikiPedia's list of Italian PDO (DOP) cheeses is a good starting point. Incidentally, there's an equivalent list of PDO British cheeses - so there you have it, the EU is not always a bad thing, is it?
My favourite Italian cheeses
I am a big fan of hard, strong Pecorino.
Fontina is delicious, sweet and soft, but haven't managed to buy a decent one in London - it turns hard and bitter quite quickly, and it doesn't sell enough even in delicatessens in Soho.
Robiola, a soft northern cheese, is another favourite.
Taleggio is not bad either, great for cooking, a bit too intense to eat on its own.
If you are ever in Italy and miss British cheeses, Asiago tastes somewhat similar, but has a different texture and is slightly sweeter. Nice and subtle.
Toma and Tomino are only worth trying if you are on location (the Alps), but they are often preserved in oil and may be worth a shot in that form.
Castelmagno is another northern hit.
Other lists
Guffanti, a cheese exporter in Lago Maggiore, just up the road from my hometown, has a good list of lesser known, mostly northern cheeses.
The National Association of Cheese Tasters run yearly competitions. Here is the shortlist from the latest cheese competition.
And finally, I agree with this list of top Italian cheeses by one of the cofounders of the Slow Food movement:
Top Ten Cheeses
- Parmigiano Reggiano stravecchio "Vacche rosse"
- Naturally fermented gorgonzola
- Fontina della Val d'Aosta
- Mozzarella di bufala
- Castelmagno
- Caciocavallo Ragusano
- Bagoss
- Asiago
- Pecorino sardo "Gavoi"
- Pecorino di fossa
- Strachitunt
- Burrata pugliese
- Raschera
- Grana sardo di pecora
Emerging Cheeses
Special mention
Mmm.. I'm feeling peckish now
Hope that's useful. Happy cheesing.